It's been three summers since I last rototilled the soil in my garden it into a fine powder. As the third no-till growing season came to an end, I found myself thinking a lot about why I switched, and wondering, "Has it made a difference?"
After quite a bit of thought, I can unequivocally say, "......maybe?"
It does seem like maybe there's more organic matter on the surface - but only on those rows where I left cover crop residue or put down mulch. And it does seem that maybe the water soaks in better than it used to - but again, only on the rows where I left the residue from last year's cover crops.
Does the soil hold that moisture longer? It didn't seem to...not really. Even on the rows that were cover cropped, once the rains stopped, the soil dried seemed to dry out just as always. I guess there still aren't enough soil aggregates - enough humus - to retain the moisture for very long.
So I think to answer the question, "Has it made a difference," I guess it depends on where in the garden you look.
In some places, the soil was so poor to begin with, I think it has to have gotten at least a little better.
Take the Hügelkultur row for example. When I compare the production in that row this year to the pitiful results from last year, there was a huge difference. The San Marzano tomatoes did amazingly well this year, in spite of me and an early summer drought.
Was this because the soil had more nitrogen because of last winter's cereal rye/lentil cover crop? Had the buried logs rotted down more, holding more moisture? Was it just dumb luck - a fluke? I'm not sure. All I know is that I had more tomatoes in that row than I knew what to do with.
The San Marzano tomatoes were absolutely loaded down with beautiful tomatoes in spite of their rough start and the dry spell we had during the early part of the summer. |
The rows that were cover cropped with crimson clover last year seemed to do really well too until the drought and the grasshoppers came. The crimson clover residue doesn't last long at all, and because those rows weren't mulched with anything after that, the soil just dried out in spite of all the trips I made with my little green water can.
Lush growth of basil, carrots, parsnips and petunias in the month of June. Unfortunately, I didn't get to harvest a single thing from this row. |
One of the supposed benefits of no-till is a reduction in the number of weeds. I remember feeling panicked last spring with all the winter annuals that came up everywhere. But I left them, and after they died back, it seemed like overall there were fewer weeds in the garden this year - mainly just low-growing annuals like Common Yellow Wood Sorrel (Oxalis stricta) and Ground Spurge (Euphorbia prostrata) (both of which are considered by many to be undesirable garden weeds) and some grasses like Goosegrass (Eleusine indica) and Hairy Crabgrass (Digitaria sanguinalis) (both of which I consider to be extremely undesirable garden weeds!).
But the more I learn, the less bothered I am about having some weeds in the garden. I recently listened to Huw Richards interview Joshua Sparkes on Substack, and when I searched for "Joshua Sparkes" on YouTube, I found a presentation he did on the "Old Tree Soil" YouTube Channel for the Mycelium Presentation webinar. It was a LONG presentation, but I thought well worth the time!
Now I'm not ready to go all in on leaving all of the weeds and on growing weed/crop polycultures like they do on that farm, but a lot of what he had to say really made sense. In his view, weeds aren't necessarily a problem - they're a free resource - an opportunity.
A couple of "opportunity" plants growing in one of my rows...curly dock (Rumex crispus). This plant is supposed to be a dynamic accumulator making it great for "chop and drop" mulch. I'm not going to try to dig it up again (I've failed at that several times already). So long as I don't let it make seeds.... |
I'm slowly coming to understand that having healthy soil means sometimes stepping back and just allowing nature do its thing - letting things grow, letting things share space, letting things decompose on the ground in the rows. It means acknowledging that I don't have to have my thumb on every single thing that happens in the garden and it doesn't have to be so neat and orderly like the garden Charles Dowding grows to be considered a successful garden.
Having grown up working in a garden that was plowed and hoed, that's a big adjustment for me to make.
At the end of year three, I have learned that I still have a lot to learn about how going no-till can make my garden better.
The National Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) has lots of good information online, including a publication titled, "Unlock the Secrets in the Soil - Principles for High Functioning Soils." That publication says:
Soil health is the continued capacity of a soil to function as a vital, living ecosystem that sustains plants, animals, and humans. Only living things can have “health,” so viewing soil as a living, breathing ecosystem reflects a shift in the way we view and manage our nation’s soils.
Key soil health management principles:
- Minimize disturbance
- Maximize soil cover
- Maximize biodiversity
- Maximize presence of living roots
I think I've done Ok at "minimizing disturbance" after last fall's re-work of my raised rows. I've actually not disturbed the soil much at all since then (other than pulling the goosegrass and crab grass).
But in my fourth year of no-till, I really want to focus on the last three soil health management principles. And based on my experiences from the first three years, I think the key is going to be using cover crops.
I had what I'd consider pretty good success with my cover crops over the last two winters, but the problem was I didn't plant enough of them. Other than the rows where I grew the hairy vetch/cereal rye and some crimson clover, the rest of the garden was pretty much bare all winter, with maybe only a light layer of half-rotted straw to cover the rows. So that was definitely a fail - I didn't "maximize soil cover" over the winter months very well at all.
And even though I did manage to grow some Sorghum Sudan grass to harvest for mulch this summer, I only planted 2/3rds of a row, which in each of the two cuttings I did only made enough to put a thin layer of mulch over about 2/3rds of another row. I didn't get a third cutting from it this year because of the drought. So many of the rows that were left bare during the winter were also bare during the summer, when the temperature on the soil surface pegged out my thermometer at over 120° F.
I've made up my mind to fix that mistake starting this fall. I'm going to do my best to maximize soil cover, biodiversity and living roots by planting a mix of cover crops over most of the garden this winter. But then I also want to try again to grow my own mulch next summer and test out some diverse cover crop mixes - maybe a mixture of things that are pretty drought and heat tolerant like the sorghum Sudan grass, sunflowers, purple hull peas, okra, zinnias, and sun hemp.
My plan is to keep a thick layer of mulch or a good "polyculture" of food crops and/or cover crops in every growing space I can.
But to put that plan into action, I had to get those fall covers planted. They needed at least a little time to grow before the weather turns cold.
By mid-October, I was starting to get really anxious. The drought that started in August had gotten even worse and I knew anything I planted wasn't going to germinate.
I was afraid I was running out of time.
On Saturday, October 19, I decided I couldn't wait any longer. I planted different cover crop mixtures that included: cereal rye; winter wheat; lentils; hairy vetch; crimson clover; daikon radish; lacy phacelia; cilantro; dill; and fava beans.
And as much as it pained me to do it, I spent probably five hours dragging the garden hose (hooked up to city water) up and down the rows, trying to give every row a good deep soak, watering slowly enough that the water would soak in and not run off into the walking rows. I told RAF there was no telling how much water I used. I guess I'll find out when I see the water bill!
Giving the Hügelkultur row a good soak. |
Apparently the watering paid off because five days later, little shoots of cereal rye were poking up through the straw.
And in other rows, little crimson clover seedlings....
Crimson clover seedlings with a few volunteer zinnias (left). |
The rows all got a second good soaking about a week after they were planted, but that was the last time I had to water them.
On October 30/31 we finally got some rain!
That wonderful, wonderful rainy spell gave us 1.08". It didn't rain on November 1, but all combined, on the 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th, we got another 7.58"! It's amazing how much things grew after that!
Mix of daikon radish, crimson clover, lentils, common wood sorrel, and miscellaneous weeds. |
It's now mid-November and the winter cover crops are looking really good. So long as it doesn't immediately turn off cold, I think they'll be able to put on enough growth to survive the winter. There are a few "blank spots" in some of the rows where the seeds didn't germinate very well, or the rabbits ate the seedlings, but overall, I'm happy with how they're doing.
So now I wait. It will be about five months before the cover crops are ready to terminate. It gives me plenty of time to get my sickle sharp. I'm going to be doing lots of crawling on my hands and knees cutting things down!
I was pretty disgusted and burned out by the end of this year's growing season. The drought and the grasshoppers just made gardening, "no fun" for me. But I'm already starting to feel a bit of anticipation, anxious to see what happens next year.
When I write my post, "Reflections on year four of no-till," I wonder what I'll have to say?